Jason Grech’s bridal wear, which opened Day 3 of the Malta Fashion Week and Fashion Awards 2019, sent the models sashaying down the catwalk in a flurry of gorgeously embroidered, yet subtle mermaid gowns, most of them embellished with delicate beading. The first dress, however – a show-stopper if ever there was one – departed from the generally slim, skimming silhouette, with a full satin skirt and low-cut bodice endowed with a bouquet floral pattern in dark carnation, pale rose, violet and cornflower blue. Other stunners included the layered tulle gown, its voluminous skirt once more providing a contrast to the more subtle, straight dresses. Plunging necklines alternated between showing a décolleté and modestly covering the chest with a sheer panel. More elaborate designs included appliqué glittery flowers on the dress’s heart-shaped bodice or, alternately, forming the entire neckline. Grech’s next display, entitled “Dancing in Portugal”, plunged his audience straight into eighties disco glamour, with a puff-sleeved mini dress in what must be this season’s hottest colour – gold. Other designs flirted with lamé, glitter and other metallic colours such as burnished bronze and brass. Lengths ranged from trains that swept the floor to three-quarters pencil dresses and micro-minis. Belts that cinched the waist came in matching shiny shades, and mustard or turquoise office-inspired slacks were paired with sexy sheer shirts. The longer dresses featured wonderful tile-print inspired textiles. As the show wore on, another favourite detail this season came into prominence – fringes, which adorned fabulous flapper-inspired dresses and also necklines. Layered ruffles came a close second, and long dresses exposed the legs in daring, almost hip-high slits. Fun, flirty and fabulous, this collection veered between elegance and frivolity.
Khan’s display presented a marked divergence from Grech’s collection, having seemingly been inspired by marvellously intricate rustic motifs from her native Russia, eighteenth-century courtesans and Little Bo Peep. Necklines were high, skirts were stacked and layered, both short and long, whereas trousers were long and straight-legged, some with pleats. The most pleasing element in this show was the artful Slavic take on paisley designs. Together with a few of the items covered in a checked pattern, this was certainly the show’s defining component.
Day 4, and it was the boys’ time to shine. Gagliardi’s menswear collection highlighted close-fitting, ankle-length trousers, matched either with plain or checked waistcoats and jackets, themselves short and fitted. Cravats and neckties were balanced out by casual, plain necklines. The models breezed through the show in the kind of ensembles which could easily be worn to spectate a game of polo, as much as it could be donned to a cocktail party. Clean lines, layering and earthy colours made for understated, refined outfits, with the elegance of the cravats offset by the playful nod to a rural touch, in the form of a labourer’s cloth cap. The emphasis was very much on relaxed sophistication, with fur lapels and jacket linings twinned with handkerchiefs donating a laid-back but glitzy look.
Fiona Couture’s designs closed off day 4’s show with an emphasis on cut and form. Cream culottes jostled for attention with sleek cigarette pants in light violet. One particularly memorable number was the off-white jumpsuit – with its glittery appliqué floral design, palazzo pants and billowy sleeves, it exhibited the epitome of wedding-guest chic. Lace was present, but rather than call attention to itself, it could be seen as a restrained, subtle detail. The palette called upon during much of the show was a variation on beige, off-white, cream and fawn, with accents of coral, violet and black. A-line dresses proposed a cute, girlish alternative to the more classic long gowns or short skirts with long trains. This collection points to a desire for timeless grace, rather than looks which grab hold of you by the lapels.
Trends summary for women:-
- Plunging necklines
- Pencil skirts
- Jewel or metallic colours
- Mermaid dresses for brides
- Layers or flounces
- Textile-inspired prints
- Cigarette pants
- Palazzo pants
- Waist belts
Trends summary for men:-
- Tight or close-fitting, ankle-length suit trousers or jeans
- Earthy colours
- Checked patterns
- Cravats or neckties
- Urban sophistication meets rural playfulness
- Eighties-inspired plain necklines – t-shirts with sports jackets
- Coloured jeans
- Little nods to luxury, such as fur lapels
- Matching neckties and jacket linings
- Short, fitted jackets
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